The French Angelfish is one of the marine specimens that changes colors as it ages. When they are young they will be black with five vertical yellow bars. When French Angelfish mature they will lose those vertical stripes. As juveniles in the wild they perform a cleaner role, but stop doing this after they grow past 4 inches (10 cm) or so.
A fairly hardy fish, they can live for a very long time if given proper care. They will eat most aquarium food including smaller fish and invertebrates. It is important to provide them primarily with marine algae. A large tank with lots of live rock, algae and sponges makes it easier to care for this species.
Temperament can be an issue with this angelfish. They are considered semi-aggressive and may quickly become the dominant fish in your tank. Given their potential adult size of 15 inches (38 cm) and their intolerance of their own kind, you should plan on keeping only one of them in your aquarium.
The French Angel has been noted to be fairly disease resistent but you still need to take proper pre-cautions and use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank.

The Queen Angelfish is found on the coral reefs of the Western Atlantic Ocean. They are usually found alone or sometimes as a pair. They can get quite large, up to 18 inches (45 cm) and are not recommended for the saltwater beginner simply because most folks don't have a large enough tank to keep them in. You would need at least a 200 gallon tank to adequately care for them!
The coloration and markings on the Queen Angelfish as a juvenile are very different from the adults. Juveniles have a darker body with white vertical bars towards the back of the body. They lose these bars as adults and develop a sort of "crown" on top of the head, which is probably why they have the common name "Queen Angelfish". The dorsal and anal fins will grow past the tail fin (caudal fin).
They can be relatively hardy once acclimated into a well established, large tank that is 6 months or older. Since this fish is quite expensive (approximately $80 - $200 USD) you don't want to add them to a new tank going through the nitrogen cycle or one without sufficient amounts of live rock. Live rock may provide grazing opportunities for them in between meals as well as hiding places to help make them feel more secure. Don't plan on keeping multiple Queens in the same tank or territorial aggression may ensue. They may also pick fights with other saltwater angelfish species, but that may be less likely. Be prepared to separate them if necessary.
The biggest issue you'll most likely encounter is feeding them. In the wild they mostly eat sponges. This can be near impossible to reproduce in the home aquarium, but fortunately we can buy frozen marine foods containing sponges. In fact, there are frozen cube packs now made especially for saltwater angelfish and butterfly fish. Try to supplement their diet with dried marine algae and/or vitamin enriched herbivorous fish foods.
This fish is usually the show piece or prized specimen for hobbyists with the right tank setup and they are truly an awesome fish.

The front half of the Bicolor Angelfish (Two Color Angelfish) is yellow, the back half is a royal blue and they have a "saddle" like blue over the eye region. This is dwarf angelfish that is commonly available at the saltwater fish store and is usually in the $20-$30 price range. Although this fish is not as colorful as the Flame Angelfish it is still quite striking and will make a beautiful addition to the right saltwater tank setup.
The Bicolor Angel has a reputation as being difficult to keep and are deemed not as hardy as some of the other dwarf angelfishes. It may depend on the location they are coming from because some of the fish collectors may have questionable collecting practices. With that little tidbit in mind you may want to take some extra time when acclimating them to your saltwater aquarium. Only add them to well-established tanks, preferrably an aquarium that has been setup up for at least 6 months.
In the wild they can be somewhat reclusive, not venturing far from their hiding places in the rock. It is a good idea to provide plenty of hiding places in your tank as well since it should help make them feel more secure. Providing live rock has a secondary benefit of being a food source that will allow them to graze in between meals. Feeding them is not difficult since they should go after most fish foods including frozen and flakes but some hobbyists have reported that this is not the case. If you have difficulty getting yours to start eating, try frozen or live foods at first and then slowly wean them onto other fish food. Try to give them foods enriched with spirulina. Some frozen cubes are enriched with spirulina.
Only one of the dwarf angels per tank! Even though they are seen in pairs or even small groups in the ocean, they will not tolerate each other in the small confines of the home marine aquarium. If you have a sufficiently large tank you may be able to get away with multiples if they are introduced at the same time and if they have plenty of hiding places.

The Coral Beauty Angelfish (Centropyge bispinosus) is a dwarf marine angelfish that only reaches about 4 inches (10 cm). They are commonly available and are relatively inexpensive when compared to other saltwater fish. They can be fairly hardy and are known as one of the hardiest of the dwarf angels.
The Coral Beauty is usually fairly peaceful but can be belligerent with tank mates. Unless you have a very large tank, they will fight with other dwarf angels over territory. They may also be aggressive with smaller tank mates (fish and invertebrates) if kept in a smaller tank. Provide them with lots of live rock for hiding places and they may spend most of their time out in the open.
Feeding them can be difficult and it's usually hit or miss with this species. Some hobbyists have no problems getting them to eat flake and frozen foods whereas others report that they can't get them to eat standard aquarium foods. Either way, having a good amount of live rock in your tank will provide them with not only places for hiding but it will also give them a food source. They primarily eat algae and will graze on the algae growing on your live rock. For those reef aquarium keepers out there, this fish may not be the best choice for your reef tank. They have been known to nip at lps corals. If you're worried that they are not getting enough to eat, get some dried marine seaweed and use a veggie clip to place it in the tank. There are special marine angelfish foods out there as well and you may want to try them.
These dwarf angelfish can come down with the usual saltwater fish diseases and using a quarantine tank is a must. Keep them in quarantine for 2 - 3 weeks before introducing them into your main tank.

Another saltwater dwarf angelfish, the Eibli Angelfish is often available and not all that expensive either. The Eibli has a variety of common names including the Blacktail Angelfish, the Orangeline Angelfish and in some circles it's called Eibl's Anglefish. They are found on the reef at depths of 1 to 30 meters (3 - 90 feet) and are often found among groups of Halfblack Angelfish (C. vrolikii) which they may inter-breed with. You'll read several places that say you can keep them in tanks as small as 30 gallons (114 liters) but a 55 gallon would work out better given their potential adult size of 6 inches (15 cm). The Eibli is one of the bigger of the dwarf species.
Like the other dwarf angels you'll want to keep only one of these per tank because they will fight with other dwarf angelfish. Provide plenty of hiding places for them and they should be out and about more often. They have the reputation of being very shy, but ours is extremely inquisitive and does not shy away from our hand when doing tank maintenance. Keeping them in a reef tank setup may not be a good idea. They might nip clam mantles and corals.
Feeding them can be a little challenging at first. Try introducing a variety of foods several times a day. Two small feedings a day would be good. Ours went after defrosted mysis shrimp right away, but didn't take to the algae on the veggie clip at first. Placing a small piece of dried algae sheet under a rock did the trick. After it was used to nipping at the algae under the rock we tried the veggie clip again and it worked. You may need to get creative trying to get them to eat.
All the dwarf angelfish can easily get the common saltwater fish diseases so a quarantine tank is a good idea.

One of the most colorful and attractive of the commonly available marine angelfishes is the Dwarf Flame Angel fish. It has a striking red or orange body with vertical black bars in the mid section. The good news is that the Flame Angel fish only gets to be about 4 inches (10 cm) or so and can be the prize specimen in any tank. The bad news is that they can be fairly expensive, they don't ship very well, and may bully other dwarf angelfishes or smaller tank mates.
Flame Angel fish need a tank with moderate to high water circulation, better than average water quality (very low or zero nitrates) and plenty of live rock. They will graze on the live rock in between meals and use any hiding places provided by the live rock when they feel threatened.
When it comes to eating, they are not as picky as some other saltwater fish. They seem to really like the frozen marine foods, live and flake foods. Definitely plan on using some dried algae supplements if not enough is present on the live rock in your tank to avoid any nutritional disorders.
Unfortunately, Flame Angels are often shipped with some type of saltwater fish disease and the use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank is a must. Because Flame Angel fish can be quite expensive (though not as expensive as some of the larger saltwater angelfish) it is a good idea to ask the fish store to hold them for a couple of weeks before you bring them home.
As far as reef tank compatibility goes, some reefers have kept them with no problems at all and some had to remove them because they were picking at the corals or clams.

Even smaller than the dwarf angelfishes, the pygmy angels are becoming quite popular. One of the most popular is the Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish which is also known as the Atlantic Pygmy or sometimes the Cherub Angelfish. They only get to be about 3 inches (8 cm) as adults and have an orange or yellow color to the head and throat area. The photo on this page doesn't do this fish justice. All of these Dwarf Angelfish are quite beautiful.
They can be pugnacious and will fight with other dwarf angelfish including those from their own species. They have been bred in captivity although it is extremely challenging to raise them due to fighting, aggression and feeding the larvae. If your interested in breeding pygmy angelfish this could be an ok one to start with. Introduce a group of small sized fish into the tank at the same time. There will be aggression while they establish a dominance hierarchy. The largest most dominant one will develop into a functional male. How long this takes is difficult to say. Getting them to spawn is the easy part (and thats not all that easy). The hard part is raising the larvae and finding the proper foods to feed the very small mouthed larvae.
They can be added to fowlr tank setups but use caution if you want to add them to a reef tank setup. They have been known to nip at soft coral, stony coral and even clam mantles.
Provide frequent small feedings of a variety of foods, but primarily foods of marine algae origin. Try a lettuce clip with nori. Using Live rock is a good idea too and it should provide grazing opportunities in between meals.
As always, use caution when introducing these angels to your tank. A quarantine period of several weeks is recommended.