|
Chinese Algae Eater
The Chinese algae eater is commonly offered for sale in local pet shops but is probably not the
best choice for most tanks. As juveniles they perform their job of eating algae with gusto but as they mature they may eat
algae less and become very territorial. As they mature they may also start to affix themselves to the sides of larger flat
bodied tank mates (such as Angelfish) and they will damage the scales of their victims.
These algae eaters can sometimes
jump out of tanks so you will need a good hood with no escape points.
Just like other tropical fish, place your fish in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing
them into your main tank.
As juveniles they should eat the algae growing on the walls and objects in your tank but it has been reported that they
will eat algae less when they mature. Avoid placing them in newly setup tanks lacking algae for them to graze on. Algae wafers
can be used to supplement their diet.
Corydoras Catfish, Cory Cat
The Corydoras Catfish, or Cory Cat, is an excellent addition to most community tanks because
of their peaceful nature. Bottom dwellers, they are content to constantly rummage around the bottom of the tank looking for
scraps.
They prefer to be in schools of 6 or more but many keep one or two corydoras in their smaller tanks.
Cory cats enjoy feeding on tropical fish food that will sink to the bottom such as algae wafers or shrimp pellets.
Iridescent Shark Catfish, Pangasius Catfish
The Iridescent Shark is also known as the Pangasius Catfish, the Sutchi Catfish and the Striped Catfish. There is also
an albino iridescent shark. As you may have guessed from some of the other common names, this really isn't a shark, it's a
catfish. They originate from Asia and this is one of the species that is completely unsuitable for most hobbyists in our opinion.
This fish can grow to be almost 4 feet in length (120 cm) and sometimes larger in the wild. They are very active swimmers
as well. Who out there has the tank big enough to adequately keep this monster?
They are quite skittish and can be easily
frightened by sudden movements in front of the tank. Their nervous behaviors can lead to damage of themselves and for their
tank mates. Keeping them in a school of 5 or more may help calm them down. Floating plants may help make them feel secure
too. They have been known to jump from tanks, so a good tight fitting hood is a necessity for this fish.
They are omnivorous and should go after all fish food that you place in the aquarium. Some feel that the irridescent
shark should be given more carnivorous type rations as juveniles and to mix more greens into their diet as the get bigger.
Aim for a varied diet of flake foods, frozen foods, algae wafers and catfish pellets.
Seriously, this is a tank buster. They are very active swimmers, may eat smaller fish and will outgrow most tanks. If
you've already purchased this fish and it is in a smaller tank, please consider returning it to the petstore and getting something
smaller.
Otocinclus Catfish, Otto Cat
The Otocinclus is a great addition to a peaceful planted tank and a small school of them can form a great algae cleanup
crew. They like to hang out under and on plant leaves as well as sucking on the tank glass. However, Otocinclus Catfish can
be a little reclusive at times and providing places to hide will help make them feel secure. Because they can be quite shy
it's a good idea to avoid keeping them with overly aggressive tank mates or other fish large enough to eat them.
Otto
cats are primarily herbivores so you will need to supplement the Otocinclus diet with algae wafers if you think they may not
be getting enough algae to eat. Some hobbyists have difficulty in keeping them and it may stem from the tank not having enough
algae present for grazing, improper acclimation, lack of hiding places, high nitrates and low oxygen levels. Stay on top of
your water changes to prevent nitrates from getting out of hand and provide plenty of surface agitation (air stones or powerheads)
for gas exchange. For even better results, add your new Otocinclus to an established tank that has already completed the aquarium
nitrogen cycle.
Ideally, you should quarantine your Otocinclus before introducing them to your main tank so that you can monitor them
for disease and also provide them with optimal water conditions and no competition from other tank mates for fish food. They
may be stressed from transport when you buy them from your pet shop and quarantining them will help settle them down.
Plecostomus, Pleco
It is usually referred to as "Pleco" because of the superstition that if you spell it fully or correctly your fish will
soon die. The common plecostomus is well known as an algae eater and can often be found stuck to the side of your aquarium.
Many will get very large with the common variety getting to be almost 18 inches (46 cm) and will outgrow most aquariums under
55 gallons.
As they get older they may eat algae less often and you will need to supplement their diet with algae wafers
that sink to the bottom of your tank. Shrimp pellets that drop to the bottom of the tank are another favorite. Drop in the
algae wafers or shrimp pellets after you turn off the lights for the day to prevent the other fish in the tank from getting
the food before your pleco can get to it.
There are varieties that don't get as large, such as the Bristlenose Plecostomus which reaches about 5 inches in size
as adults.
Corydoras schwartzi
The Schwartz's cory is one of the many varieties of Corydoras species. It is of the regular size for the cories, which
is about 2.5 to 3 inches. They also have relatively the same preferences for water parameters. These little fish like neutral
water, 6.5 - 7.5 for the pH, the water being soft and the temperature around 71 - 75°F (22-24°C). They come from the rivers
of Brazil. So they prefer a well planted tank that has lots of hiding places. Their home should be at least 10 gallons for
a school of just 3 cories. These fish, if cared for properly, will live to around 3 to 5 years.
Since these are social
little fish, they like to be in a school of at least 3 of the same species. If you want to have multiple cories in the tank,
then try and have at least 3 of each species. Most species prefer the company of their own species, but if they have none
of their own species, they will school with other species. These fish have such a peaceful nature, the C. schwartzi can be
put with many different fish, except larger cichlids, and any other fish that are big enough to eat the cory.
These cory cats are hard to spawn in the home aquarium, but if you are able to spawn them, it is very rewarding, because
these fish usually go for about $7 to $10 a piece in the local stores.
Zebra Pleco - Hypancistrus Zebra
The Zebra Plecostomus is a spectacular catfish that is wanted by nearly every fish keeper but unfortunately purchasing
it is not always that easy as they demand a high price, much more than the normal rate. This fish is also commonly known as
the Zebra Pleco, Imperial pleco or by the L numbers; L46 or L98.
The zebra pleco has bold black lateral stripes running across a white body with a black stripe running over the body
from one pectoral fin to the other. The dorsal fin has a high expansion and it is possible to develop a blue twinge when in
prime condition. It has a sucker mouth with 4 whiskers. Like other pleco's it has a flat-ish stomach.
These pleco's come from the rivers of Rio Xingu, Para and Brazil. They require a pH of 6-7.5 but seem to be doing best
in a water pH of 6.5 or just under 7.0. A minimum tank size of 30 U.S gallons (113 litres) is required and a temperature of
78 - 86 °F (26 - 30 °C).
Rocks and decorations should be placed in the aquarium in a way that caves and hiding places are created for them, so
that they can take refuge when necessary. It is believed the more hiding places there are the more they will come out into
the open, knowing they will be able to hide whenever they want. Fine sand or river gravel should be used for substrate. Rocks
should be placed in the aquarium to imitate its natural environment as well as driftwood. A powerful filter is needed as they
require a strong current.
They are shy, nocturnal fish, generally coming out at night. Competing for food is not something this fish is good at.
If other bottom dwellers are kept along with the zebra pleco, be sure that they aren't of the aggressive nature, gobbling
the food without the zebra pleco getting any of it. It is known for them to be territorial towards their own species as well
as a small retreat they may take as their territory, hence the reason caves are needed, especially if more than one zebra
pleco is kept in a single aquarium. They grow between 3 - 4 inches (7.5 - 10 cm) and their lifespan is known to be about 10
- 15 years.
When first introduced to the aquarium it is essential to make sure that the zebra pleco is getting food. Due to their
shy nature they may be too shy to come out into the open to eat. Feeding them in quiet spots where they don't feel threatened
is advised. As this is an expensive fish, going one step further in its care taking is not a bad idea. Zebra plecos are omnivores.
Live and frozen foods, such as blood worms and brine shrimp can be fed, however live foods are more appreciated. Crushed peas
with the skin removed, corgette, also known as zucchini or baby marrow are good for the veggies part of the diet. Tetra prima
and algae wafers too, can be fed.
To be able to tell their genders, the male has a broader head and the first pectoral fin ray is thicker for the male
then the female. Also he has thicker hairs on the pectoral fins, while the female's is visibly thinner. The females head is
also decidedly rounder than the males.
With the temp at 82 °F, the aquarium well aerated and caves or driftwood that resembles a cave, spawning can take place.
Spawning takes place in several batches within the cave. The male will at first block the cave entrance with his head. Eventually
the female then persuades him away from the entrance of the cave to fertilizes the eggs. The male may even push her out of
the cave. 99 % of the time, the first spawning will be a false test with none of the eggs hatching. The male will guard the
fertilized eggs and the female won't even be allowed into the cave. There are usually 7 - 15 eggs laid in each spawning. The
eggs take 7 days to hatch and by day 10 of the fry's life, the yolk sac will be gone. They will take most fry food as soon
as the yolk sac is gone. It takes 2.5 months for them to reach 1" (2.5 cm).
|
